Museu da Água - Mãe d'Água e Aqueduto das Águas Livres

Today we take a tour of two of the sites that make up the Museu da Água, a group of infrastructure facilities that delivered water to the city as recently as 1974. The oldest of these structures dates from the 1730's (these do not date from Roman times). We start at the Mãe d'Água (Mother of the Water), essentially a colossal, stone water tank next to the Jardim das Amoreiras, which distributed water to a series of public fountains downstream. A portion of the Aqueduct forms the western edge of the park, and a small church sits within one of the arches. There is a series of azulejos panels, in the lower plaza, that tells a part of the story of water. Through the Doric gate (two-way-traffic in a one-lane arch, with trolleys!), around the church, and up a set of stairs, and you pick up the trickle of the fountain in the center of the park – a small hint of bigger things inside.

 

 

Walk around the Mãe, and there is a small, somewhat tropical, formal garden, with spitting lions and views of the streets below. Entry is up a turning, narrow stair at one side, through a door, and the space suddenly opens. At the far end is a mossy, lumpy mound of green, with a classical dolphin head drooling down into the pool.

Step closer and we are shocked to see the pool is filled with garbage – it's an art installation, and includes the "fish" made from beach plastic displayed on the outer walls. And then a group of school children, that had evidently been in another part of the Museu, re-enter and fills the room with chatter, laughter, and all their echoes. Anticipate a cool, clean, quiet place and get none of those things; but it still is an amazing space.

 

 

Up another even narrower stair, we arrive at the gate above the dolphin; and then narrower, and out the top. The roof level includes another, shallow pool, though currently dry. Walk through the empty pool to the other side and there are amazing views out to the city.

Back inside to cool off, and we find a large wheel, which might possibly drain the reservoir. The school children leave and we are plunged into silence, and left to enjoy the colors, stillness, and reflections on the water's mirror surface.

 

The next stop is a fifteen minute walk to the north – the Aqueduto das Águas Livres (Aqueduct of the Free Waters). The entrance to the Aqueduto is off a busy street, down a stone walk, and into a walled garden in the shape of a quarter circle. The shade of the trees keeps the benches around the outer wall cool to the touch. The bilheteria (ticket office) is in one corner, and the quarter circle literally funnels you to the top of the structure.

Unfortunately, it's just after noon time, and orientation of the Aqueduto is north-west, so there is very little shade. It's about a kilometer long, and there is a right turn to the north about two-thirds the way across. The views of the arches and the interrupted city below are fantastic.

Just past the "bend" is an open door that allows a peek down the hollow of the aqueduct (there is no water), and a crossing to the other side, with views of the Ponte Vinte e Cinco de Abril and the Cristo Rei (the suspension bridge and the monumental Christ figure). Though a bit too sunny, but with enough breeze to make it tolerable, the walk is very enjoyable. It's fascinating to see, and a joy to appreciate, the astonishing engineering and architecture.