Ireland – Dublin and Howth

Today, we have a day trip from Dublin and Howth (pop 8,277 in 2016). This Ireland trip is super-low stakes for us: relatively little research, no driving (stay on the left!), cheap stays. So a series of bus trips is on our schedule over the next couple of weeks. We have a bit of time before our first bus, so we head to Ireland's National Cathedral, St Patrick's Cathedral (Anglican, twelfth to fourteenth centuries). It'd be simple to have one cathedral Catholic and one Anglican, but evidently, it's not that clear cut – as the denomination has switched in the past.

Stylistically, the architecture is strikingly similar (blocky Romanesque-Gothic), but the presentation is miles apart. Upon entering, we land immediately in the gift shop, and it's substantial. The whole area near the front (west) portal is filled with knick-knacks post cards (as opposed to the crypt at Christ Church). On either side of the gift shop are two enormous family tombs. And at one end of the gift shop, there is a glass case with Jonathan Swift's death mask and a cast of his skull (he is a former Dean of this Church).

The crowd is nearly impenetrable. This is made worse by the restoration of a line of full-body neoclassical sculptures lined-up in the north aisle along with busts and memorial plaques.

 

 

 

 

 

The north transept holds several memorials to those who served. The south transept appears to memorialize past politicians, and is also used to, apparently, entertain bored children (it offers a display 'educational' objects and exhibits).

As at Christ Church, in front of the altar is the choir, in this case with bright banners and beautifully carved aedicula, each topped by a sword and a knight's helmet – the helmet finials are particularly fascinating. Behind the choir is The Lady Chapel, which features a stained-glass triptych which is visible from the worship space.

 

 

 

 

Howth Summit is about an hour from central Dublin. After two days of castles, cathedrals, and tight crowds, the wind and wildflowers are a relief.

 

We make a stop at Howth Harbor for ice cream and pictures. The West and East Piers form two arms, each with a few small lighthouses. Just beyond the 'arms' of the Harbor is Ireland's Eye, an island north of the peninsula; it's all extremely picturesque. 

 

 

We walk up the hill to St Mary's Abbey and Cemetery (ruin, thirteenth century). The church walls and the graves lie on a flat plateau. The Eye floats above the old 'crenellated' retaining wall and melts into the ivy and moss growing on the stones. The space is clean and well-kept, but several stones are broken or toppled. The white crosses counterpoint the sailing masts and the cranes in the marina below.

 

 

 

Anne Flinn's stone, dead at 21 and dated 1766, reads as follows:

A friend that lov’d they earthly form when here

Erects this stone to dust he held most dear

They happy genius oft his soul reviv’d

Nor sorrows felt until of thee depriv’d

Peace to thy gently shade and endless rest

To thy fair soul now number’d with the blest!

Yet take these tears mortality’s relief

And till I share thy joys, forgive my grief

These little rites, a stone, a verse receive

Tis all a father, all a friend can give

– transcribed by F. Grose, 1792