België, Day 1 – Brussel

We are in Brussel (Brussels, pop 1.25m in 2024), België (Belgium), for a few days to see an art show (Josef en Anni Albers at the De Boghossianstichting - Boghossian Foundation) and to check out the bloementapijt (flower carpet) which will be installed on Thursday night (for the Maria-Tenhemelopneming - Assumption of Mary).

Our introduction to Brussels takes us down the Nieuwstraat. We pass the Onze-Lieve-Vrouw van Finistèrekerk (Our Lady of Finistère Church, 18th century) and the Noorddoorgang (19th century) shopping gallery – suggesting that this was previously the northern edge of the old city.

We pass the Kathedraal van Sint-Michiel en Sint-Goedele (Cathedral of St. Michael and St. Gudula, 15th century), and turn into the Koninklijke Sint-Hubertusgalerijen (Royal Saint-Hubert Galleries, 19th century). This impressive shopping 'mall' ends at the Grasmarkt (Grass Market), and the energy levels rise.

 

 

 

Just around the corner is the Grote Markt (Grand Place). We enter from the northeast corner of the square and are confronted with the spire of the Stadhuis van Brussel (City Hall, 15th century). The facades gleam in the late afternoon sun, and sparkle with gold.

The Den Gulden Boom (Brewers Guildhouse, 17th century) faces us, topped by the equestrian statue of Karel van Lotharingen (Prince Charles Alexander of Lorraine), a popular governor from the 18th century.

Opposite the city hall is the darker presence of the Broodhuis (Bread/King's House, 16th century), which despite being the 'King's house', appears to be the only structure without gilding.

 

 

 

 

Atop the spire of the Stadhuis is a wonderfully primitive statue (15th century) of a swordsman slaying a dragon. We think at first that this is Sint-Joris (St George), but it is Aartsengel Michaël (St Michael, patron saint of Brussels). This is made clear by the central figure in the tympanum above the entrance, St Michael is in the center defeating Satan, and St George is to one side with a dragon.

The rest of the facade is lined with sculptural figures of important citizens, noblemen, and so forth. The steep roof is pierced by a rhythmic arrangement of small dormers.

 

Across the street from the eastern tower of the Stadhuis is a well-known monument to Everaard t'Serclaes (19th century), who was a long-serving alderman – tourists rub his arm for luck.

We complete our day and our introduction with chocolates from Mary.