Our time here in Spain is over far too quickly. This morning's schedule involves our driving from Salamanca (pop 144,825 in 2020) back to Portugal, with a stop or two on the way to stretch our legs. After breakfast, we take a stroll to get some exercise and say goodbye and enjoy the sand-colored architecture.
In the Plaza Mayor, the Policía Local gather for some kind of event or ceremony. Blue barricades ring the center of the square, and banners hang from the Ayuntamiento. Police cars sit in one corner and motorcycles in another. Feathers twirl on the helmets of tall men in dress uniforms. And epaulettes, people are wearing epaulettes.
Whatever the ceremony is, it's taking a while for things to get going, and we don't wait around.
We go to check out the Mercado Central as it was closed on our last try. This morning it is alive. Despite the inland location, there's plenty of fish and seafood, but the sausages and charcuterie steal the show. It looks and feels like any mercado in Portugal, but cleaner, brighter, and with better signage. Strangely, it smells better, too.
We shop for some gifts for friends. It's all easy and friendly.
Finished in the Mercado, we continue toward the Plaza de Colón. On the way, we find the courtyard of the Palacio de la Salina (16th century) is open, and there is a crowd. Folks are here for some kind of bonsai gathering – hobbyists and photographers are inspecting the plants. Under the loggia, there's another line of tables with plants, and the judges or 'experts' demonstrating their skills; these are the serious people.
The Palacio is beautiful, and we're glad of the chance to see it. Wonderfully twisted and tortured bodies support the upper loggia. Painted florets provide the impression of coffers between the joists. The balustrades are in carved stone, with all the ironwork concentrated at the porte-cochère. The deep spring blocks of the main arch add tension as well (top image).
One more swing past the La Casa de las Conchas (late 15th century) and the La Clerecía (17th century), and we finish our walk on the Calle Rúa Mayor. The merchants are setting up, cleaning their windows, and getting ready for another busy day.
The drive home is uneventful, covering about ninety miles of flat landscape in good time. We arrive in Alfaiates (pop 360 in 2021) by afternoon with plenty of time to get some groceries before dinner.
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