Palladio’s Villas in the Veneto – Prelude in Vicenza

We say goodbye to Scorzè, catch the train to Mestre, and catch another train to Vicenza (pop 111,980 in 2017) – back to Palladio's hometown (previous visits: 2017, 2018, 2023).

Tonight at the welcome dinner, we join our tour, "Palladio's Villas in the Veneto". Our hotel is right on the Campo Marzo, the big city park opposite the train station. The main avenue connecting the historic center, the Viale Roma, is under construction, but the workers are done for the day and the path is brightened by the fall colors. The Basilica di Santa Maria di Monte Berico (late 15th to early 18th centuries) glows at top of the hill, as we arrive. 

We drop our bags and go in search of lunch. A flea market spills out of the Torrione di Porta Castello, the medieval gateway that marks the entrance to the city – a city whose attics are now clearly empty. The trinkets and old books slow our progress as we browse: porcelain, jewelry, typewriters, and framed portraits.

Anxious to find a way round and for a taste of Palladio, we enter the Giardini Salvi and see the Loggia Valmarana (1591), whose 'clean' Doric Order likely derives from I Quattro Libri. It just looks so good there in the garden.

We exit through the brick archway and take the 'back way' into town.

  

 

 

 

We head toward the Piazza della Signoria, Passing the Duomo di Vicenza (15ht to 16th centuries) with Palladio's dome and lantern.

Here the flea market continues, with used outdoor furniture, old ironwork and lanterns, and the obligatory garden gnome.

 

 

 

When we reach the Basilica Palladiana (1546-49), we find the Piazza jam-packed with shelves, coat racks, and umbrellas over the vendor stalls. How did they get all this stuff in here?

Near Palladio's statue, a lady is selling religious figurines, tchotchkes, and plates. Though he looks stern with concentration and distant, we must imagine Palladio happy. The Piazza is full of life, and the Basilica is the market's center.

His architecture is fulfilling its purpose – providing a gathering place for the city to thrive.