Thursday, November 21, 2019

Impeachapalooza


It's a week before Thanksgiving. I had a tooth extracted on Monday, and am now stuck in the apartment with a headache and a dull pain in my jaw. I'm not supposed to do any "physical activities", so I've had all day to watch the public hearings for the impeachment investigation in the US House Intelligence Committee. By way of passing some time and processing what I'm seeing, here's a quick little diary of the past few days.

It's Wednesday, November 13; it's the slow build-up. I am taking antibiotics and anti-inflammatories to deal with a cracked tooth and infection. The tooth is super loose, super annoying, and I'm not sure it's going to stay in place all day. My tummy is not happy about the medicines.


In the morning, we watch testimony from Charge D'affair for Ukraine, Captain William Taylor (West Point, Harvard, Bronze Star), and Deputy Assistant Secretary of State, George Kent (Harvard, NDU). These are two sharp, seasoned, well-dressed, and well-prepared foreign affairs professionals. They lay out the timeline and the broad strokes, and describe a forking of US policy towards Ukraine into a "regular channel" and an "irregular channel". They both tolerate and even offer some support to this "irregular channel" while it seems to track the same policy line as the regular channel. But just as Taylor arrives at his post in June 2019, this "irregular channel" begins to fly off the rails, with demands for announcements and investigations in exchange for meetings and foreign aid. By September, Taylor threatens to quit.
“The nightmare is [the Ukrainians] give the interview and don’t get the security assistance. The Russians love it. (And I quit.)” – Taylor, text to US Special Envoy Kurt Volker, September 8
Taylor's predecessor is former Ambassador Marie Yovanovitch (Princeton, NDU), and she testifies on Friday. She is the victim of an unexplainable (and unnecessary) smear campaign, orchestrated by players in this "irregular channel", which results in her departure from Ukraine in May. This campaign culminates in her being belittled by President Trump in his July phone call with President Zelensky.
The former ambassador from the United States, the woman, was bad news and the people she was dealing with in the Ukraine were bad news so I just want to let you know that.” – Trump, Zelensky call transcript, July 25
My impressions at the end of the day Friday are: wow, there are some seriously dedicated people in our foreign service. And wow-wow-wow, the people currently leading them are deeply nuts. It's particularly galling that the Republican defense is: the President can do whatever he wants with Ambassadors. On paper, true, but is that how we want to handle the diplomatic corps? the diplomatic corps on the front lines in Ukraine? And why the smear? what is to be gained? If he can just remove her, then do that.

As my dentist tells me: don't wiggle or touch the tooth. It's not something to play with. It'll make the infection and the pain worse. Be patient, take your meds, and we can safely extract it as planned.


During the hearing, President Trump cannot help himself and tweets out more insults. This is captured by Committee Chairman Adam Schiff, who is able to ask Ambassador Yovanovitch in real time about the smears, to which she says simply, "it's very intimidating".
“Everywhere Marie Yovanovitch went turned bad. She started off in Somalia, how did that go? Then fast forward to Ukraine, where the new Ukrainian President spoke unfavorably about her in my second phone call with him.” – Trump tweet, November 15
The timeline and the facts are now comprehensible. What is incomprehensible is how Trump and Giuliani are creatures of habit. Their "standard operating procedure" is to smear people because that's how they rule and keep their people in line: by fear and intimidation. It's a zero-sum game; they win when you lose. They don't know any other way. Even if they have a clean and simple route, a one item checklist to remove the Ambassador, they create a mass of innuendos and insults to justify the the removal and further their agenda. They are determined to discredit and clear away people they don't like, and everyone else plays cowering witness – it's mob-style terrorism.

The other thing we all learn is: it's "Keev", not "Kee-ev".

On Monday morning, November 18, I walk down the street to the dentist. The tooth is still in there, but it's really wobbly and uncomfortable, so I'm not necessarily happy about it. Our dentist is a small, dark Portuguese lady with a quick smile. Luckily, her English is passable, but the extraction is a bit rough, and she displays surprising strength in removing a damaged but stubborn molar. She runs the post-procedure care instructions through Google Translate and e-mails them. It's going to be a few days of ice-packs and ibuprofen.


On Tuesday morning, the hearings resume with NSC Director, Lieutenant Colonel Alexander Vindman (Harvard, US Army, Purple Heart), and State Department advisor to the Vice President, Jennifer Williams (Georgetown, Princeton). Again, incredibly competent and well prepared people. Again, Vindman is the target of insulting tweets from the White House; he is a "never-Trumper". The most striking piece of testimony here is an exchange between Vindman and Ranking Member Devin Nunes, who is clearly digging for names and trying to "out" the whistle-blower.

I'm surprised to find myself thinking of the witnesses in terms of “theme and variation”, with Kent-Taylor giving way to Williams-Vindman – an older and younger pair of people in service. I'm thinking that they are time-machine versions of each other, especially as Captain Taylor and Lt Col Vindman both take the seat on the right, both decorated and dedicated.

Tuesday also has an afternoon session with Special Envoy, Kurt Volker (GWU), and NSC Senior Director, Tim Morrison (GWU). These are two witnesses that are requested by the minority, so the themes sound similar but the tone of the hearings definitely changes, like we've shifted to a minor key. However, the tensions soon flip around, as both of these witnesses seem to reinforce the idea of a series of quid pro quo's. Volker revises his earlier deposition and now says there was "conditioning" for a White House meeting saying, "I have learned many things". Equally important, Morrison also confirmed that he was told that the hold on the $400 million in aid to Ukraine was in exchange for investigations.


Tuesday is prelude to Wednesday as all things now seem to point to US Ambassador to the EU, Gordon Sondland, a wealthy businessman who, like Trump, made his fortune in hotels and hospitality. His professional disadvantage at the witness table, that of being a hotelier and not a diplomat, is laid bare. He does not take notes, is not prepared, and his memory and language skills do not belong to a diplomat. He does not understand political nuance and he is trained to charm, not debate. He simply does not have the work practices and experience for this challenge. That said, he does seem smart, able, and personable – he's in hospitality after all. Though he was appointed to his post by Trump after his now infamous million-dollar inauguration donation, he still opens with:
“I know that members of this committee have frequently framed these complicated issues in the form of a simple question: Was there a ‘quid pro quo?. With regard to the requested White House call and White House meeting, the answer is yes.” – Sondland, November 20
Sondland's testimony is unexpected for so many reasons, not just the "about-face" from his earlier closed-door deposition, but for the character delivering them. The flow of witness testimony is like a symphony in four movements: from last Wednesday, to Friday, to Tuesday, it is a precise and powerful welling up of well-chosen words, and well-ordered statements. But the payoff, the fourth and final movement, is this Wednesday. It is Sondland, a large, bald, well-dressed man cartoonishly crashing through the percussion section, stepping through the drum heads. He is clearly trying so hard to be charming, and he seems sincere in trying to be a good ambassador, but his vulgar language, his inappropriate laughter, his spotty memory are in stark-stark contrast to all the foreign service professionals: well prepared, decades of service, proper work habits.

And he names names – all the names: the Vice President, the Secretary of State, the Secretary of Energy, the Chief of Staff. Everyone is "in the loop". Clearly he is not going to be left with the short straw, so he's cutting all of them. And he's giggling and cracking wise through the whole thing.


On CNN, a camera crew follows him out to the airport after the hearing as he returns to Brussels. It broadcasts, as background to the talking heads, Sondland joking with the gate agents; they are all having a great good laugh. He's showing them something on his iPhone. That iPhone may soon become infamous, too.

In a way, it seems that his "amateur status" is exactly how and why Trump is able to manipulate him and arrange his back-room deals. He is a CEO from central casting: sharp, demanding, a bit self-important, but able to get things done quickly and with a smile. But it's also why he is now trumpeting not only his actions, but the actions of others. He likes being seen in the middle of things. He's creating a cacophony, and seems to be enjoying it. He appears oblivious to the awful, awful mess he's making.


Thursday features former NSC Senior Director, Dr Fiona Hill (St Andrews, Harvard), and Counselor for Political Affairs at the US Embassy in Ukraine, David Holmes (St Andrews, Princeton). This is the lively, unexpected encore; the orchestra is called back, and play a lyrical Gershwin piece, something anyone can enjoy. Hill, a seasoned national security specialist with a distinct Northern English accent, and ultra clean-cut Holmes are both refreshingly personable. Though no less professional than the other witnesses, they seem a bit more open and opinionated, and the descriptions of the meetings and phone calls are a lot more colorful.

For example, Holmes takes us to an outdoor cafe in Kiev with Sondland making his call to Trump. He describes the terrace and the open glass doors. He is seated across from Sondland, sharing wine and appetizers, and is able to overhear the phone conversation, acting out Sondland's physical responses and expressions. Hill takes us into a meeting with National Security Advisor John Bolton. We see the seating arrangements, understand the structure of the discussion items. We watch Bolton's posture and troubled reaction when Sondland inserts himself at the end of the meeting. Hill also point-blank shoots down the idea that Ukraine had anything to do with meddling in the 2016 US election. Her short but strong opening statement is, maybe, the most compelling thing to come out of this entire investigation.


Soon, the Republicans realize they really should not direct questions to these two witnesses, and begin monologuing during their time. They get a lot of reactions from the audience, though, and more than one expression of frustration from Holmes. It's a shame that the minority members are leaving, as Hill points while trying to respond to one diatribe, as the stories really have important lessons about how our government's words and actions seriously impact other countries.

So, one huge take-way is that our foreign service people are way under-appreciated. The bureaucrats in the deep state turn out to be some decorated veterans, some immigrants, and some quite tall people; all with impeccable training and CVs. It goes a long way to restoring some faith in "our American government" even as our institutions are under attack from Trump and his minions. Watching the pros answer their Republican questioners, especially Nunes, Jordan, and Stefanik, is an education. Pros take notes, organize their testimony, deliver clear responses, and are immune from "gotcha" questions.

How people playing at government, like Sondland or Giuliani or Trump, are tolerated and given guidance by the dedicated people in foreign service is astonishing, even touching. These career staffers are trying, to the best of their abilities, to keep these dilettantes on the same page. Way beyond professional courtesy, it is a patriotic generosity of spirit, and is spot-lighted when Dr Hill responds to Rep (Dr) Wenstrup (video embedded below). But it seems the dilettantes can only be tolerated to a point, and then the pros feel they need to pause things and explain the damage. This is why these witnesses are giving their testimony against the orders of the President. Thus the tragedy of this metaphor is that the conductor is a dilettante, too, and unquestionably the very worst one.


Let me add before closing that while Hill and Holmes do seem to be the most relatable, they have the advantage of being able to add up all the other testimony – two plus two equals four, as Sondland says. As the last pair, they hear the other evidence, understand the power of the narrative, and decide how best to deliver the message. I suspect any of these witnesses would have done that math properly, unlike Sondland, because that's what they are all trained to do: analyze and explain. The larger story is now clearer to them, and they make it very clear to me.

What's also now clear is that we are headed for an impeachment. After Sondland's "quid pro quo, yes" testimony, there really can be no other outcome for the House Democrats. Like a bad tooth, the extraction is sharp and uncomfortable, the healing very slow and painful. But you got to do it.
“When we are consumed by partisan rancor, we cannot combat these external forces as they seek to divide us against each another, degrade our institutions, and destroy the faith of the American people in our democracy.” – Hill, opening statement, November 21

"Kardashians, A$AP Rocky and four-letter words: The impeachment inquiry clearly reflects the Trump era", by Kevin Liptak, CNN
"Seven hours in the air with Sondland after he implicated Trump in his impeachment testimony", Zachary Cohen, CNN

Sunday, November 10, 2019

Viajantes de Um Dia - Day Trippers


This is another catch-up post for a number of day trips that we've taken in the past three weeks. Since returning from Barcelona, we've been able to settle our visa situation until the spring, California suffered a number of wildfires, Halloween happened (yes, it's kind of a thing here in Portugal), there were world-wide anti-government protests (Algeria, BoliviaChileCataloniaHong KongIraq, Lebanon), and the US House committees have completed their "quid pro quo" investigations of the Trump Administrations, and will begin public hearings next week. And in that time, we also went to ...

MAAT



November 3  – The Museu de Arte, Arquitetura e Tecnologia (MAAT) is in the Lisbon bairro of Belém. It's quite a long way from the historic center, but we are in the mood for a good walk. Despite some moments of misty spray, we find the walk along the Rio Teju is a great way to "view" Lisbon. Usually, you get Lisbon views from a miradouro, a high viewpoint, where you walk up winding stairs and alleys to the top of a hill, and you reach the top and the city hits you. Walking along the river, you get constant visual contact with Cristo Rei, the Ponte Vinte e Cinco de Abril, but then also the constant changing cityscape along the hills.

  

MAAT is two buildings: a swoopy-low, Calatrava-like "dune-cavern", and an enormous, decommissioned power plant. The contemporary building, from 2016, is by Amanda Levete Architects. It's a "dune" is because the roof garden, which provides a slightly elevated view of the river side. It's also a cavern which contains a series of smaller, connected galleries on the lower level, and a larger, double-height space with a viewing ramp.

 

The old power plant originally opened in 1909, and the current building dates from 1930's, and includes an expansion from the 1950's. The plant was decommissioned in the 1970's, and served as the Museu da Electricidade in the 1990's. Inside, the power plant actually makes amazing gallery space, and the Trienal de Lisboa (Lisbon Architecture Triennale) is on display. Though a little esoteric even for an architecture nerd like me, the show was full of wonderful drawings and models – when there's a lot of architectural work is in a show, all I can do is marvel at the amount of time I know it takes to put it all together.

 

 

The Museu da Electricidade is still there, too, and the old industrial spaces have been put to astonishingly good use in telling the story of the plant. With lighting, sound, and a few well-placed mannequins, posed mid-shift, loading coal, or pushing ash carts, the power of the building lives on.

 

 

Miradouro da Senhora do Monte


November 5 – It's a beautiful autumn day in Lisbon, and we take a walk from our apartment to the Miradouro da Senhora do Monte in the bairro of Graça. One of the highest points in the city, what might elevate this miradouro above the miradouro at Castelo de São Jorge, is the fact that you are not standing *on* the Castelo, the Castelo is *in* the view. It may be the "biggest"or "widest" view of Lisbon, and the bairro of Graça is a great places to explore.

 

 

 

Évora


November 8 – We take a day trip  to the ancient city of Ebora, now Évora. The trip is built around a tour given by Mário Carvalho of Ebora Megalithica to see a few of the pre-historical (archeological) sites dotting this compelling landscape, in the province of Alentejo. It's a ninety minute bus ride from Sete Rios, to travel back in time several thousand years.

Our first stop is to the Cromeleque dos Almendres, which dates from about 6,000 BCE. After watching several YouTubes previewing the site, I am shocked to find it barren and deeply eroded. The site itself is broad, and sloped to the east; its axis of symmetry is aligned to the sunrise on the equinoxes. We arrive at the site at about 10:30 in the morning, so the shadows cast in the pictures are to the northwest. The site is ringed with several dozen standing stones, of varying height, but all of a human scale, and all generally rounded. A few stones have curious markings which are hard to read in the sunshine: rings, crescents (moons), and hooks (shepherd staffs). They are roughly arranged to create an enclosed space – not like a "room" but more like a camp site. In the sharp sunlight, in the middle of an extensive grove of cork oaks, the standing stones create a striking contrast, in the clearing, against the craggy limbs.

 

 

Next stop is the Menhir dos Almendres, a solitary, four meter standing stone about 1400 meters to the southeast of the Cromeleque, which marks the rise of the sun at the summer solstice from the enclosure. Another menhir marks the winter solstice, about the same distance from the Cromeleque, but to the northeast. Mário tells us that the height and the orientation of the stones, which were all re-erected, are known by studying the "sockets" which are preserved in the geology; it is known that this stone was stood in the incorrect orientation, as the hook marking (barely visible in the flattened surface) should be facing east, toward the morning sun.

 

The third stop is to the Anta Grande do Zambujeiro. This is a tomb, where several skeletons were found buried in a ceremonial fashion, and dates from about 3,500 BCE. These very large stones are arranged in a typical layout for dolmen (burial structures) in the area, with a wide, flat stone at the back, and three narrower stones on each side, and the east-face entry passage, thus forming a kind of flattened octagon in plan. A wide cap stone lays behind the structure; it was broken when the earthen mound was removed from the stone structure. A rough metal structure stands cover, but is clearly nearing its end of life, and the design actually concentrates the rain within the excavated valley of the mound. We are told that it is unsafe to enter.

Such a shame these sites are not under the proper care of some local authority. Mário's excellent expositions are tinged with the regret that these sites are in serious threat, with no plan to preserve or protect them.

 

 

The afternoon is spent exploring the old city. From megaliths to Roman ruins, we find the Templo Romano de Évora in the center of town; we are told that its "nickname", the Templo de Diana, is not quite proper. Just a few columns remain standing of this hexastilo temple; if a typical double-square, it would have eleven columns a side. It's generous of the city to leave the area of the ruined temple "empty" where one may imagine the rest of the structure complete.

The Corinthian capitals are amazingly clean and white; the columns are deeply fluted and really grab the mid-day light. Wonderful to think that it's still here after two thousand years.

 

 

Next to the Templo is the Sé, the Cathedral of Évora and dates from about 1200-1300. We start at the top; not a crazy dramatic climb like some other churches. The tops of the entry towers are capped by cones covered colorful roof tiles and bright ochre moss. The cap of the crossing is an imposing, octagonal stone turret.

 

 

 

Inside, the Cathedral is remarkably plain, with even-cut, grey stones and clean, contrasting mortar lines. Oddly, there is a kind of altar, bright gold, crowded to the left side of the main nave, with a striking figure of the pregnant virgin. Above this, and to the rear, is a remarkable pipe organ, with vertical and horizontal horns. The chapels have some nicely ornamented pieces, but the most impressive space is the main choir itself, a highly ornamented, classical baroque ending to a plain gothic story. To each side of the choir, in each transept are false-perspective, barrel-vaulted chapels.

 

 

 

The cloisters are also available to the public. Like the main structure, these are heavy, gothic vaulted halls framing some nice views back to the church.

 

 

Our last stop in Évora is the Cappella dos Ossos, inside the Igreja de São Francisco. We so enjoyed our macabre visit to the crypt at the Igreja de São Francisco in Porto, we think this a must-see. The Cappella is a large, vaulted room completely plastered with human bones. I especially appreciate the bones used to delineate the pilasters and embedded arches, and the skulls used to trim the vaults.