Norte de España – Tour de San Sebastián

Yesterday's introduction to San Sebastián (Donostia; 189,866 in 2025) has filled us with anticipation for our morning walking tour. The weather, however, turns on us, and we walk into an intermittent drizzle as we head for the Plaza Sarriegi. We take cover near the Iglesia del Sagrado Corazón (1902), then make our way through the small public park on the Alameda del Boulevard and into the 'Parte Vieja' – the old town at the base of Monte Urgull.

Waiting for our group to gather in the Plaza Sarriegi, we can see the Mercado de La Brecha (Pescadería, early 20th century) from one end of the Plaza and the campanario of the Iglesia de San Vicente Mártir (16th century) at the other.

The tour begins with a short walk north to the Plaza de la Constitución (1722, rebuilt 1813). This Plaza is the in the center of the Parte Vieja and is still home to local festivals and performances. Today, it's a parking area for the trucks servicing the market; in the past it was the site of bullfights, which is why the balcony doors are numbered.

The beautiful Gothic pórtico of the Iglesia de San Vicente is just two or three blocks further north. The pórtico lends the group plenty of cover as our friendly but opinionated guide tells us about the 'poor people's church', the first building that truly feels 'viejo'. Though the campanarios frame the south archway, the church faces west, with a fanciful Baroque entryway; rather than a central rosetón, there are windows on either side of the broad central tower.

The interior of the church is properly dark. The upper reaches above the vaults over the aisles rise unbroken and do not form a clerestory, so the only natural light is from a small oculus in each bay. The remaining light is filtered through a pair of large rosetones at the ends of the transepts, with another pair above the coro alto.

The retablo central is a multi-level classical Baroque framework fitted and folded into the apse. The aediculae hold relief panels depicting scenes from the Pasión of Cristo and martyred saints. Through the center are stacked: Cristo Pancrátor, San Vicente Mártir, and San Sebastián (arrows).

From the Iglesia, the walking tour heads west to the Plaza Valle Lersundi, a short, widened street the feeds the side entrance of the Iglesia de San Telmo (Museo de Sociedad Vasca, 1544-62). At the entrance of the Plaza are two local features: the female statue carrying bricks is "Berreraikuntza" ("reconstrucción", Dora Salazar, 2013) is on our right; and the elaborate fountain "Kañoietako Iturria" ("fuente de cañoieta") is on our left.

Just down the street, the towers of the Basilica de Santa Maria del Coro (1774) loom over the shops and restaurants. Our guide calls this the 'rich people's church. The Baroque entrance is in the form of a apsidal arch, with an overly theatrical Asunción scene, María rising towards the Espíritu Santo framed by Composite columns. The Insignias Papales are set into a small rsoetón above the arch, just below the contorted figure of San Sebastián (arrows) atop the pediment.

Continuing west, the tour emerges from the Parte Vieja on an elevated seawall facing La Concha from the northeast. The Mirador de la Entrada de la Calle Puerto is a lookout on the seawall standing over the Marina area, with views of the Isla de Santa Clara and Monte Igueldo.

Following the Paseo de La Concha and turning south now, the tour enters the Centro neighborhood. We pass the Ayuntamiento (city hall, 1887) and pause in the lively and open Parque Alderdi Eder. The Parque and the towers of the Ayuntamiento create perfectly framed views of the "Sagrado Corazón de Jesús" (Pedro Muguruza & Federico Coullaut, 1947-50) on the Castillo de la Mota (11th-19th centuries).

Just east of the Parque, the Diputacíon Foral de Guipúzcoa (19th century) is the seat of the provincial government (council). Further east, the tour ends by the Río Urumea, in the Plaza Okendo and sandwiched by the Hotel María Cristina (1912) and the Teatro Victoria Eugenia (1912).

After the tour, we return to the Mercado de La Brecha for lunch. It's midday in San Sebastián's largest market, and it doesn't feel crazy or crowded; it's busy, but still relaxing.

Then, we make our way through the Plaza Sarriegi and by the Ayuntamiento, for views of La Concha. We walk south into the Plaza Cervantes (where we ended that day yesterday) and return to our rooms for a quick break before the afternoon.

We begin the afternoon walking south on the Calle de Easo (Easo Kalea). The towers of the Hotel Catalonia Donosti (Colegio Campañía de María, 19th century) appear above the decayed walls holding back the hill.

On the other side of the hill, the Plaza Easo opens along the street to the west, facing the Estación de Amara-Donostia, with the Padres Carmelitas Descalzos on the corner. Here, we turn east, our eyes catching the red trim and Joker-like faces on the Hotel Palacio des Bellas Artes (1914, converted 2026). The building blocks give way to a larger green space along the Río Urumea, the Parque de Araba. We turn north again.

We decide to explore the Gros neighborhood on the other side of the river. We pass the Correos (post office, 1907-09) and cross on the Puente de María Cristina (1905). On the other side, we find the Tabakalera (1913, converted 2015), a contemporary art and cultural center in a converted tobacco factory. On the roof we discover a wonderful mirador, where we can see the Puente, the spire of the Catedral del Buen Pastor (1888-97), the Torreón de Monte Igueldo (1758, rebuilt 1912), the "Sagrado Corazón de Jesús", the Estación del Norte (19th century), and the the Mar Cantábrico.

Our day of 'wandering around' concludes with the most obvious destination, Monte Urgull. We head back to the Entrada de la Calle Puerto and locate the stairway. The path offers a choice: 'steep and long' or 'steeper and shorter'. We choose to take the long way, initially, then with a false sense of confidence and comfort, take the steeper way at the end.

The story of the "Sagrado Corazón de Jesús" is complicated – it was installed atop the Castillo de la Mota during the Francoist years, and many locals still see it as a symbol of that awful era. For such a visible monument, its history is not embedded in the generally available tourist information, and Catholics are reminded of a time when the Church declared the Republicans their 'enemies'.

The narrow stairs at the base of the Castillo lead right into the Capanario (17th century) then onto the south-facing firing deck, with some of the best views of the city. And we can see how the curving wall underneath the "Sagrado Corazón de Jesús" awkwardly joins the Cuartel (barracks, 18th century).

The Capilla del Santo Cristo de la Mota is on the north side of the Castillo. The Calabozo (prison) is next door. We finish the walk at the west-facing Batería de Santiago. The vertical views over La Concha, the Isla de Santa Clara, and Monte Igueldo are breathtaking.

Even with its changeable weather, San Sebastián is a city that rewards walkers, whether you stick to the level ground near the river and the beach, dig into the history and culture of the old town, or enjoy the panoramas from the heights of the hills.