Ireland – Clonmacnoise

Our mission is to drive west from County Meath across Ireland to the town of Dingle (pop 1,671 in 2022). This is just under three hundred miles (450km) and will take us all day. Still, it's not so long that we feel rushed – we can take our time and make some rest-stops. We pack up the car with our luggage and some snacks.

Unfortunately, soon after merging onto the M6 from the M4, the car flashes an air pressure warning. We pull off the motorway at the village of Tyrrellspass, in County Westmeath, but there's no air compressor at the Inver (gas station) there. The man in the office tells us there's another Inver just down the highway.

On the way, we pass Tyrrellspass Castle (15th century). It looks like an interesting place to have lunch, and the tire will still be there after our meal. After lunch, we find the Inver in the neighboring village of Kilbeggan, but it also has no compressor. Luckily, there's an auto-repair place behind the Inver, and the very generous mechanic takes care of our tire pressure issues. And he gets a few snacks for his trouble.

We rejoin the M6 and continue into County Offaly.

We reach the River Shannon, which defines the western boundary of County Offaly, at about three. The early Christian monastic site of Clonmacnoise (6th century) sits on the south bank of the river – quite an early outpost considering that Christianity arrived in Ireland in the fifth century. The site honors its founder, Saint Ciarán of Clonmacnoise.

Clonmacnoise occupies a bluff over the river; the visitors' approach is from the southwest. The largest ruined structure is the Cathedral (Temple McDermott, early 10th century), which centers a burial ground covered with slab tombs, several high crosses, and other markers. The South Cross (outdoor replica, 9th century) features a Crucifixion scene just below the crosshead (rather than in it) as well as the typical linear design work.

To the north, O'Rourke's Round Tower (12th century) holds the high ground, just where the bank descends to the riverside. While the eastern counties are in drought, here, the grass is invitingly fresh and green.

The Temple Dowling (10th century), basically a small church or family chapel, is just behind the South Cross, on the south side of the Cathedral – a large relief with the Dowling crest (17th century) is inset above the Gothic archway. Temple Dowling is joined to Temple Hurpan (18th century); Temple Hurpan encloses another high cross.

Inside, the Cathedral's floor is covered with slab markers and column bases. Its walls are laced with layers of arches and ruined vaults. The Cathedral is associated with many of Ireland's early kings: King Flann Sinna was the Cathedral's original patron and Rory O'Connor, Ireland's last High King, was buried near the altar in 1198.

Following this theme, on the east side of the Cathedral, Temple Melaghlin (13th century) hosts the tombs of the Kings of Meath. The largest of the 'temple' churches on this central lawn, Temple Melaghlin is also known as 'The Kings' Church' and features a pair of beautifully dressed Romanesque lancet windows.

Temple Ciarán (early 10th century) is the smallest 'temple' and the reputed burial place of Saint Ciarán. With its slightly corbeled form (reminiscent of Saint Columb's House) and standing marker, it is believed to be the oldest stone church in the country.

On the north side of the Cathedral, we find an intact Gothic entrance known as 'The Whispering Arch' (15h century), with carved architraves, relief lintel, and three inset figures above the door: Saints Dominic, Patrick, and Francis.

From the edge of the bluff, we descend toward Temple Connor (12th century), a sturdy structure of stone with an intact roof (20th century) and a proportionally tiny entrance (currently shut). The walkway leads to the north where we can view the open-air extension with the tombs of the Malone embedded within the low arcades.

Further north, near the Shannon, the Temple Finghin and McCarthy's Tower (both 12th century) remain as a co-joined composition, brought together with some wonderful architectural details and stone moldings at the entrance of the Temple and base of the Tower.

Climbng the rise O'Rourke's Round Tower, we take a moment to find and inspect the North Cross (replica, base and shaft, 9th century) and the Cross of the Scriptures (replica, 10th century), which stands near the entrance to the Cathedral.

The Cross of the Scriptures depicts several Biblical scenes around its shaft. On the west side, from the bottom (photo below), we see: Soldiers at the Tomb of Christ, Arrest of Christ, The Flagellation and in the centre of the ring, The Crucifixion. The lower cell on the east side, facing the Cathedral (top image), is said to show King Flann and Abbot Colmán marking the grounds for the Cathedral's construction. Meanwhile, the figure at the top of the east face, in the ring, depicts Christ at The Last Judgement – note the blessed to His right lead by a piper and the damned to His left lead away by Satan.

Before we leave, we stop at the food truck near the Visitors' Centre to grab some more snacks. The area is currently being renovated into an expanded facility set to open next year.

After a quick stop for popcorn near Adare and a heroic final push, we make it to Inch Beach and the shores of Dingle Bay by around eight. Though it's been a long day, the sun is still up, and we make it into Dingle town with enough daylight to find some really good fish and chips, walk along the Harbour's seawall, and relish the flashing lights and excited screams from Turbett's Spin City Funfair.

Ireland – Mellifont Abbey & Kells

We are using our first full day in Ireland to pursue the 'eternal'. We are driving out to the village of Kells (pop 6,608 in 2016) in County Meath, origin of the Book of Kells (9th century). First, we make a quick stop to enjoy the morning air in Kilsharvan Cemetery (Co Meath). We learn from the posted sign:

The cemetery dates back to the 13th century. The church is dedicated to St. John the Baptist – the bitter tongued, thus the name Cill Searbhain – 'the church of the bitter tongued one'. The church has been in ruins since 1641. The Augustinian monastery at Colpe, erected by Hugh de Lacy in 1182, was endowed with the tithes of the church at Kilsharvan.

There are 150 inscriptions, the earliest being to John Cofee, died March 1734. The oldest person recorded is Mary Flinn, who died 1922 at the age of 105.

Interestingly, the dates on the side-by-side markers for John Collins (died May 25, 1789) and Monica Collins (nee Donaghy, died May 30, 2017) are separated by over two centuries. An elaborate, white high cross stands over the McDonnell family plot, which includes the grave of John McDonnell (died Jan 20, 1892), the Irish surgeon known for being the first to use ether as an anesthetic outside the United States, on New Year's Day, 1847.

Our quest continues at Mellifont Abbey (12th century), near Drogheda in County Louth – not far from Newgrange. The Abbey is Cistercian, the same order we know from the in Mosteiro de Santa Maria de Alcobaça (also 12th century).

The asceticism of the Cistercians demands solitude, which explains the enormous Gatehouse at one side of the entrance drive, enclosing a natural valley. A posted poem reads:

Once you enter the abbey and final vows you take

That is most likely the last time a journey outside you make

The monks must, at all times, within the walls remain

And may only leave the abbey when the Abbot's permission they gain

And within this tall tower, made well with stone and mortar

Lives the monk who decides who comes and goes, he is the abbey Porter

Within this valley lie the remains of the Abbey. Only two elements are still intact: the Chapter House and the octagonal arcade of the Lavabo.

The Cistercian order was introduced to Ireland by St Malachy. While on his way to Rome in 1140, St Malachy visited the monastery of Clairvaux. He was deeply impressed by the strict religious life of the monks and left four of his companions behind to be trained by the Abbot, Bernard of Fontaines.

St Malachy was asked to 'look for and prepare a site like those he had seen in Burgundy'. Two years later a group of monks arrived at Mellifont to build the great abbey. Progress was not easy and a group of the brothers retreated to Clairvaux because of the reluctance of the Irish Brothers to accept the strict rule imposed by the Cistercian order. In a letter to St Malachy, St. Bernard wrote: 'It will be your business to help in the building and other things necessary for the well-being of your house.' The abbey was consecrated in a great ceremony in 1157.

Ironically, L'Abbaye de Clairvaux is now being restored from its use as a high-security prison (c1804) to a tourist site.

A generous docent unlocks the Chapter House for our visit. Its Gothic detailing is wonderfully preserved, especially the carved columns and the embossed floor tiles, and identifies this construction as fourteenth century. The archivolts on the interior of the entry portal are now installed (or recreated?) behind the altar of St. Bridget and St. Bernard in St. Patrick’s Cathedral, New York.

The arcade of the Lavabo delivers the proper Romanesque weight and proportion. In contrast, because of its ruined state and freestanding nature, it feels more open and light than the Gothic building, which would have been behind the cloisters.

We make our way around the path that outlines the cloisters. Despite the missing architecture, the site is peaceful and full of memory – as intended.

We have an appointment to see a new arts facility. We arrive in Kells with plenty of time to spare – plenty of time to explore. So, we stop into the St Johns Cemetery:

The cemetery is within the ruins of the Priory of the Hospitallers of St. John, an order founded in Italy in 1113 to protect pilgrims on the way to Jerusalem.

An order which did not prosper in Ireland.

This priory was founded by Walter Dr Lacy, the son of Hugh De Lacy, in 1199, who was granted the Kingdom of Meath in 1172 by Henry II, the Norman King of England.

Little known about the priory until 1559 when it is forced to surrender all its property to the commissioners of Henry VIll, at the time of the Reformation.

Its most likely that soon after, it fell into ruin that it became a burial ground, the earliest recorded headstone so far uncovered is 1720, but the general practice in the centuries prior was a stone marker sometimes with a carving of an Celtic Christian Cross, a number which have been uncovered.

The Abbey of Kells is just up the hill, and though we've visited the site before, we did not get to look inside the church. The interior is nineteenth century, and not particularly remarkable; still, we acknowledge the importance of the site to Irish heritage.

The only remaining part of the medieval church still standing today is the Square Bell tower in the grounds. From surviving records we know that the old church was a large cruciform structure with a Chancel and Tower. Over the door of the tower is a stone tablet with a curious inscription in Latin and old English. Part of this inscription reads "The Bodie of this churche being in utter ruyn and decaie was reedified I and DNI 1578, through the diligence and care of the Reverede Father I God Hughe Brady Byshop of Meath" …

There are three important stained glass windows in the church. The first is on the north wall near the Taylor monument. It commemorates the wife and son of the Reverend John Healy, one time rector of Kells and Archdeacon of Meath. The window was made by the London firm, Heaton, Butler & Bayne, c.1920. It depicts: (Left) A Good Wife (Proverbs 31.27, (right) The armour of God (Ephesians 6.11). The second window is on the south wall and commemorates Henry Mortimer Dyas, who died in August 1915. This window was made by the same company and depicts: The angel at the tomb. The altar windows represent Celtic interlacing, in the style of the Victorian Celtic revival, appropriate for the home of the Book of Kells.

The great Round Tower (10th century) is being cleaned and is wrapped in staging. Next door, Saint Columb's House, which is about the same age, looks incredibly fresh, though the construction is obviously ancient.

Finally, it's time for our visit at the Kells Printing Works. This is an old industrial press just recently refurbished and reopened as an historic and educational space. The collection includes a R. W. Cope Albion press, and a stunning workhorse W. Dawson & Sons Wharfedale press (both c1830). A pair of platen job presses, a model from J. Wade and a Morfitt's "Empress" stands between them.

Importantly, the Wharfedale is the same make and model used in Liberty Hall to print the Proclamation of the Irish Republic in 1916 and is one of only two of its kind currently functioning on the island. Its history includes printing local newspapers throughout the nineteen and twentieth centuries: Meath Herald, Meath Reporter, Meath Advertiser, and Meath Chronicle.

All of this is the legacy of Briany Finnegan, who ran the shop (in a different location) until his death in 1983. The facility includes a workshop area with an enormous type collection, as well as stocks of papers and inks; upstairs, there is a lecture and exhibit space. The Printing Works underscores the importance of the printed page to both Kells and Ireland.

We have one last appointment: a solar eclipse is due to start just after six. To avoid missing the event in traffic, we decide to wait in the parking lot in the center of Kells to see what we can see. Though the skies are partly cloudy, we soon get a promising image of the early eclipse (photo @ 6:30PM). Getting a photo is tricky, as we struggle to keep the iPhone cameras protected with the film of our eclipse glasses.

In less than an hour, the eclipse reaches its maximum at about ninety-four percent (top image, photo @ 7:13PM). The sunlight diminishes and the town's center slips into a colorless shadow. We grab one last picture (photo @ 7:35PM) as the moon begins to clear the sun's disk.