Açores – Arriving in Ponta Delgada

The awful weather in Lisboa dribbles into February and March, windy and wet. Because of my residency's expiration, we can't comfortably plan winter trips outside Portugal, but the Açores are a possibility.

This year's trip checks two more islands off the nine -sland list (we visited Faial and Pico in 2024). We begin in São Miguel and the capital, Ponta Delgada (pop 67,229 in 2021). Our mid-afternoon flight gives us some spectacular views of the island's coastal features on approach: the unmistakable shape of the Ilhéu de Vila Franca, the rocky white-capped edges of the Ponta da Galera, and the town of Ponta Delgado – squeezed between the volcanic hills and the curving breakwater of the Marina.

 

 

 

 

We arrive with plenty of time to find parking, unpack, and take a walk along the Avenida Marginal at sunset. Heading east to the Praça de Gonçalo Velho we arrive at the Portas da Cidade (1783) – Ponta Delgada's front door. Here we find a statue of Gonçalo Velho Cabral (José Fragoso, c1955) as well as statue of the island's patron São Miguel Arcanjo (Numídico Bessone, 1955) just off to the west.

There is a smaller square in front of the Paços de Concelho and the torre do relógio (Câmara Municipal, 1724) with beautiful radial calçadas , a reflecting pool and a planter full of small, bright flowers. The pavement is predominantly dark basalt versus white limestone.

The Igreja de São Sebastião (Igreja Matriz, 16th century) stands to the northeast or the Portas, along with its torre sineira. The volcanic masonry continues with the trim of the windows and columns, but the main portal is a lovely Manueline archway.

 

 

 

Similarly, the main altar is series of receding Baroque arches in white but surrounded by dark wood. The interior of the Igreja is other quite simple and sedate, with decorative embellishments in the arcade between the nave and the side aisles. In the north aisle is another figure of São Miguel Arcanjo with his scales of justice.

A stiif breeze splits the clouds, and the moon rises over the torre sineira (top image). With a backdrop of green calderas and the Praça full of colorful blossoms, we hasten the arrival of spring.