Ireland – Clonmacnoise

Our mission is to drive west from County Meath across Ireland to the town of Dingle (pop 1,671 in 2022). This is just under three hundred miles (450km) and will take us all day. Still, it's not so long that we feel rushed – we can take our time and make some rest-stops. We pack up the car with our luggage and some snacks.

Unfortunately, soon after merging onto the M6 from the M4, the car flashes an air pressure warning. We pull off the motorway at the village of Tyrrellspass, in County Westmeath, but there's no air compressor at the Inver (gas station) there. The man in the office tells us there's another Inver just down the highway.

On the way, we pass Tyrrellspass Castle (15th century). It looks like an interesting place to have lunch, and the tire will still be there after our meal. After lunch, we find the Inver in the neighboring village of Kilbeggan, but it also has no compressor. Luckily, there's an auto-repair place behind the Inver, and the very generous mechanic takes care of our tire pressure issues. And he gets a few snacks for his trouble.

We rejoin the M6 and continue into County Offaly.

We reach the River Shannon, which defines the western boundary of County Offaly, at about three. The early Christian monastic site of Clonmacnoise (6th century) sits on the south bank of the river – quite an early outpost considering that Christianity arrived in Ireland in the fifth century. The site honors its founder, Saint Ciarán of Clonmacnoise.

Clonmacnoise occupies a bluff over the river; the visitors' approach is from the southwest. The largest ruined structure is the Cathedral (Temple McDermott, early 10th century), which centers a burial ground covered with slab tombs, several high crosses, and other markers. The South Cross (outdoor replica, 9th century) features a Crucifixion scene just below the crosshead (rather than in it) as well as the typical linear design work.

To the north, O'Rourke's Round Tower (12th century) holds the high ground, just where the bank descends to the riverside. While the eastern counties are in drought, here, the grass is invitingly fresh and green.

The Temple Dowling (10th century), basically a small church or family chapel, is just behind the South Cross, on the south side of the Cathedral – a large relief with the Dowling crest (17th century) is inset above the Gothic archway. Temple Dowling is joined to Temple Hurpan (18th century); Temple Hurpan encloses another high cross.

Inside, the Cathedral's floor is covered with slab markers and column bases. Its walls are laced with layers of arches and ruined vaults. The Cathedral is associated with many of Ireland's early kings: King Flann Sinna was the Cathedral's original patron and Rory O'Connor, Ireland's last High King, was buried near the altar in 1198.

Following this theme, on the east side of the Cathedral, Temple Melaghlin (13th century) hosts the tombs of the Kings of Meath. The largest of the 'temple' churches on this central lawn, Temple Melaghlin is also known as 'The Kings' Church' and features a pair of beautifully dressed Romanesque lancet windows.

Temple Ciarán (early 10th century) is the smallest 'temple' and the reputed burial place of Saint Ciarán. With its slightly corbeled form (reminiscent of Saint Columb's House) and standing marker, it is believed to be the oldest stone church in the country.

On the north side of the Cathedral, we find an intact Gothic entrance known as 'The Whispering Arch' (15h century), with carved architraves, relief lintel, and three inset figures above the door: Saints Dominic, Patrick, and Francis.

From the edge of the bluff, we descend toward Temple Connor (12th century), a sturdy structure of stone with an intact roof (20th century) and a proportionally tiny entrance (currently shut). The walkway leads to the north where we can view the open-air extension with the tombs of the Malone embedded within the low arcades.

Further north, near the Shannon, the Temple Finghin and McCarthy's Tower (both 12th century) remain as a co-joined composition, brought together with some wonderful architectural details and stone moldings at the entrance of the Temple and base of the Tower.

Climbng the rise O'Rourke's Round Tower, we take a moment to find and inspect the North Cross (replica, base and shaft, 9th century) and the Cross of the Scriptures (replica, 10th century), which stands near the entrance to the Cathedral.

The Cross of the Scriptures depicts several Biblical scenes around its shaft. On the west side, from the bottom (photo below), we see: Soldiers at the Tomb of Christ, Arrest of Christ, The Flagellation and in the centre of the ring, The Crucifixion. The lower cell on the east side, facing the Cathedral (top image), is said to show King Flann and Abbot Colmán marking the grounds for the Cathedral's construction. Meanwhile, the figure at the top of the east face, in the ring, depicts Christ at The Last Judgement – note the blessed to His right lead by a piper and the damned to His left lead away by Satan.

Before we leave, we stop at the food truck near the Visitors' Centre to grab some more snacks. The area is currently being renovated into an expanded facility set to open next year.

After a quick stop for popcorn near Adare and a heroic final push, we make it to Inch Beach and the shores of Dingle Bay by around eight. Though it's been a long day, the sun is still up, and we make it into Dingle town with enough daylight to find some really good fish and chips, walk along the Harbour's seawall, and relish the flashing lights and excited screams from Turbett's Spin City Funfair.